ruthkennedysretirementblog

And life goes on, November 2023

During the entire four weeks we have been in Panama there have been road closures and protests throughout the country. It has had minimal impact on our day to day living, except we have not taken any road trips off the peninsula.

It is still rainy season and this makes beach walks on a cloudy day very enjoyable. Still hot and muggy but not blistering! The power of Mother Nature, and the size of the driftwood, continues to amaze.

We don’t seem to have much trouble keeping busy. Last year we tried our hand at growing ‘things’ from seeds or cuttings. We nurtured our little seedlings in pots and watched them grow. Before leaving Panama last April we planted everything and hoped for the best. It is amazing how much survived during the dry season without being watered. Picture on the left is March 2023, the other is current, November 2023. Not everything survived, still impressive!

Last year we were given several natural loofahs. We sprouted and planted some of the seeds, and they survived the dry season! Maybe some year we will have a fruitful plant.

This year we have a few other plants we are going to try growing from scratch.

We have a maracuyá vine (Passion fruit) growing along the fence in the backyard. Daryl took one that had fallen on the ground, broke it open and planted it. Now we wait and see. Of course we may have to wait until it gets ripe.

Coconuts are plentiful here. Daryl is getting very good with the machete.

As well as the pulp, this one had about two cups of coconut water. Good thick coconut milk makes great rice.

We are also going to try growing a coconut tree. This baby goes in water for three days, then gets planted. Apparently we should see a sprout within three months.

We make yogourt in 6-7 hours and kombucha in 5-6 days. This kombucha is pineapple. And, yes, repurposed wine bottles work.

Life has been quiet in the ‘out and about’ bit, however, no complaints from this end.

Cheers

Ruth

Panama protests

A lot of people have been asking what the protests and road closures currently happening in Panama are about.

My understanding is:

A Canadian copper mining company, First Quantum, has been operating in Panama for a few years now. Recently their contract was renegotiated and expanded.

It seems several groups of Panamanian are not ok with this. Lots of environmental concerns have been raised and throughout the country people are protesting, it seems mostly with road blockades.

Some parts of the country are more affected than others. Other than a shortage of some vegetables that have to be shipped in, Pedasi has been ‘normal’.

That’s my understanding.

Ruth

And still there are protests

Hard to believe we have been in Panama for over two weeks. The protests and road blocks started the day after we arrived and continues. For us it means no trips further afield. Why take a chance of getting stuck in a road block when we have everything we need right here in this little town.

This time of year the ocean is relatively calm. And because it is still in rainy season there is enough cloud cover to make hanging out at the beach quite comfortable. Easy to make this our main activity.

And walking is always a pleasure.

We have friends who have gone on vacation and are generously letting us use their pool. It is a pretty sweet spot!

Well, we were standing in the pool talking when Daryl gently started moving me to a different spot. Then he said “a frog just bumped into my leg”. Guess he knew what my reaction would have been if that had been my leg! Daryl rescued it.

Probably not as big as it looked.

And then there are the fun things we don’t get to do at home. How often can you get your machete out in the back yard and hack open a coconut? This young coconut has a ton of yummy water.

It has been a very quiet couple of weeks. Certainly not going to say it has been boring!

Cheers

Ruth

Another First

We arrived in Panama City on a Sunday evening, hearing reports there was going to be country wide protests starting the next day. After a quick dinner at the hotel dining room we went to bed. The alarm clock had gone off at 3 AM in Calgary so it had been a very long day.

Our appointment at immigration was not until Tuesday morning. That gave us a full day to relax and recover. Our plan was quite simple, relax at the pool.

Shortly after breakfast we could hear noises outside…and we were on the 12th floor. A peaceful protest was taking place on the street below us. There seems to be a lot of unhappy people in this country right now!

We did get to spend a lovely day at the pool and pretty much nothing else.

And of course always time for food. This lovely little restaurant was just a block or so from the hotel.

Our first seafood meal. Maybe not the first libation!

We actually got to watch a protest and roadblock a hundred or so meters down the street. Thankfully peaceful with singing and dancing.

The next day our appointment at immigration was at 10:30 AM. By 9 o’clock we received an email from our lawyer saying due to potential road closures either go early or try another day. We are already in town so may as well just go. The Uber went straight there. By 10:30 we were already finished and walked out the proud owners of Panamanian Permanent Residency cards. As we were out and about we thought we may as well get our drivers license renewed. Again the Uber took us there without any issues and the licensing process went smoothly. However, on our way back to the hotel every main road was closed with protestors. After taking several side streets, and coming across only one street with burning tires, we made it.

We wanted to go to Pedasi the next day, Wednesday, and needed to make arrangements. There were no flights into Pedasi so we tried to book with a private shuttle that we had used last year. Unfortunately, due to the protests the shuttle was cancelled. Luckily we were able to book the last two seats on a flight into Chitre (just over an hour from Pedasi). And with a little help from a friend were able to book a driver to bring us the rest of the way.

A quick Uber trip to the mall for SIM cards and road snacks, and our city tasks were completed.

At 6:30 the next morning the roads to Allbrook Airport were open and clear. Our little 24 seater plane was ready and waiting.

A cloudy day to be leaving Panama City. Also a pretty good view of the canal.

We arrived in Chitre to a fabulous day. Our driver was waiting for us and by 1030 we were in Pedasi. No problems whatsoever.

I hear we were very lucky. Our driver got stuck in a road block on his way back to Chitre.

Now let’s hope there is a peaceful quick resolution to the issues at hand.

Cheers

Ruth

Bell Island

On a cold grey rainy day, our last full day in St. John’s, we went to Bell Island. It was just a 20 minute drive from St. John’s to the ferry.

A 20 minute ferry ride and we were across ‘the tickle’.

Our first stop was a tour of the old iron ore mine. It was an incredible experience.

At one time the Bell Island mine was one of the largest producers of good quality iron ore in the world. It was open from 1895 to 1966. At its peak the islands population was about 12,000. Now the population is just over 2000.

Our guide was very knowledgeable. Her dad was a miner until he had a mining accident and had a significant injury. She gave us a ton of information. Below is a replica of all the mine shafts. We only toured the portion in white, the mine actually went miles under the ocean.

It was a little chilly ‘down below’. A constant 6C.

We had a nice gravel path to walk on, the miners did not. At one point the guide turned off the lights, it was blacker than black! Initially those miners had a candle attached to their cloth helmet as their only light source. There were lots of tools on display. A long bar that was used to break the ore loose after it was blasted weighed 30 pounds. Imagine what your arms felt like after a 10 hour work day.

Horses worked along side the men for the full 10 hours a day. There were stables in the mines and the horses would stay down for a month. Then they would go above ground for a month. Before going above ground their eyes would be wrapped in layers of fabric. Then a layer would be removed daily for several days. Otherwise the horses would go blind.

The mine shaft was on a gradual downward slope and we eventually came to a large pool of water. The balance of the mine is now flooded and used by divers.

Next we went to the lighthouse. The views were spectacular. We met three other groups: from Ontario, Saskatchewan and BC.

Our next stop was Lance Cove, Seamans Memorial.

Not sure if the writing is legible, but Bell Island was the only place in North America to take a torpedo hit during World War ll.

Our last stop was Grebes Nest. I thought it was a birding place, but no birds. At the end of the road we could see this rock sticking up.

It was a short walk to the beach and then there was a cave. Daryl went through the cave to another beach. It was pitch black inside so I chose not to go.

Another day in the books. What a fabulous vacation.

Cheers

Ruth

Petty Harbour and Witless Bay

Petty Harbour is just a short drive from St. John’s. When we started out mid morning, it was cold and raining (socks and sandals kind of weather).

I read an article that stated this community goes back to the 1700s and is one of the most photographed village in Newfoundland.

We visited a mini aquarium. All the sea creatures are local and released back into the ocean at the end of summer. This is just a tiny sampling.

The little aquarium was right on the dock. After leaving we continued further down the dock and found a lot of cod fish being cleaned. Those guys were able to fillet a fish in just a few seconds. Yes we were able to get some. So fresh. So good.

We thought our next stop would be Witless Bay Ecological Reserve to see puffins. Not quite what happened. We ended up on a dead end road. Apparently the puffins nest on a little island in the ocean. You either need good binoculars or a boat.

All was not lost. We were at the start of a segment of the East Coast Trail so did a bit of hiking along the ocean.

Another full day filled with spectacular scenery.

Cheers

Ruth

Big Falls

As a child, I remember camping at Big Falls and my dad would go salmon fishing. As Daryl and I were driving on the highway, we found the park on maps and would be passing close by. What an opportunity to see if my memories were correct.

The park is actually called Sir Richard Squires Memorial Provincial Park and was about 15 km off the highway. All bumpy dirt road! But so worth the slow ride. And there it was, Big Falls.

The park was beautiful with well over a hundred treed, private campsites. We took the path to the falls which was just as in my memories.

We could hear the falls roaring in the distance and then get glimpses of the rushing water.

There were no fishermen. Apparently there usually are people fishing in the still water below the fall.

However we saw dozens of salmon jumping up those falls. We never saw any actually make it, but it must happen!

On our way back to the car we saw the cutest, well camouflaged frog. It patiently sat and posed.

Time to get back on the road before the rain comes…..and come it did!

Cheers from fabulous Newfoundland.

Ruth

Touring around in Central Newfoundland

After our very long day taking the scenic route to central, we were more than ready to relax at my sisters cabin. The ocean view is sweet!

The next day we took a short drive to see the Beothuk Interpretive Centre. The Beothuk were the Indigenous people of Newfoundland and have been extinct since 1829.

There was a nice walk to the excavation site. We were only able to observe depressions in the grass. However, we most certainly got our full quota of mosquito bites!!

We had time for one more quick stop and went to see a salmon ladder. Not much activity while we were there. Still interesting. Apparently it is at the site of a previous pulp and paper mill with several partial concrete structures still visible.

Again the scenery was incredible. The lady who was working at the site said the fish get counted as they go through the trap door (not its real name!).

Our last stop was Gander. It was great having dinner with family. Thanks Jacqueline and Peter.

Then we went to the Joey Smallwood Cultural Centre to see Come From Away. Rather special that we saw the show in Gander, where ‘it’ all happened.

Another great day in Newfoundland.

Cheers

Ruth

Scenic little towns

When we left St. John’s to head west we were encouraged to take the scenic route. I am not exactly sure what the spit of land we took is called other than it is part of the Avalon Peninsula and is the Baccalieu Trail

We weren’t off the Trans Canada Highway very long before we started driving along the ocean and numerous little towns that ran one into the other. Apparently some of my ancestors lived along this route.

Who could resist stopping to pick strawberries? Not us! And yes we ate a few. They weren’t very big but sure tasty.

After berry picking we carried on. Practically every turn along the shore had colourful houses and boats.

After about six or seven hours on the Baccalieu Trail we were back to the Trans Canada and on our way to central Newfoundland. Then it was just highway driving. Not as pretty but functional!

The next day we thought we would take the ferry and go to Fogo Island as it was only a 50 minute drive. Unfortunately we did not check the schedule. We missed the 11 o’clock ferry and the next wasn’t until three.

The scenery was just as pretty as previously. Although there were more white houses than brightly coloured.

The little town of Stoneville was aptly named.

After a late seafood lunch (cod tongues, cod cheeks, cod fish, squid and scallops) we bought lobster to bring home to have an even later dinner.

In the meantime I am going to sit on this deck, watch salmon jump and listen to the plentiful birds. Ah Marie you have a beautiful spot here.

Cheers

Ruth

A Day in St. John’s

What a busy day we had in St. John’s. Yesterday was our first full day here and it was foggy and pouring rain. Not conducted to sight seeing. Today was cloudy and not too hot, perfect for being out and about.

Our first stop was government house. We did not get a tour as our timing was off. Government House is the official residence of the lieutenant governor of Newfoundland and Labrador. It has been open since 1831.

A large group off bikers were leaving as we arrived. Apparently it was a group of veterans and firefighters who were starting a long trek across Canada from coast to coast.

The grounds were beautiful

Next we went to the Colonial Building, which was the seat of government from 1850 to 1959.

The building has been beautifully restored. The story told to us is that the fresco painting was done by an artist who had been jailed for forgery. He did get his sentence reduced.

Next we stopped at the Basilica of St John which has been open since 1855. Another beautiful historic building.

The view from the church steps is sweet too.

Our next stop was at The Rooms, a very large museum of Newfoundlands natural and cultural history. We could have spent a full day here.

Our next stop was at Cape Spear, the most eastern point of Canada and North America (excluding Greenland). I had visited Cape Spear many years ago. It sure has changed, including the access road.

There were literally hundreds of steps (ok maybe dozens) to be climbed to see all the sights.

Our last stop in the day was Signal Hill. By the time we arrived it was late afternoon and slightly raining.

We climbed to the top. There were fantastic views of the narrows and the city. There are many hiking trails around Signal Hill. When we were here 15 years ago we walked many of them. Today it was late, cold, wet and windy!

All in all a very full and enjoyable day. Tomorrow we will try a different experience.

Cheers

Ruth