Pedasi Carnival 2023

Carnival is a blow out party lasting for the full four days before Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent. This is the first carnival held in Pedasi since pre Covid, and our first ever. There were parades showcasing the carnival queens held daily at noon…ish and after dark (any time up to midnight or later). Lots of music and food. And people. And fireworks. And water.

This sleepy little town was anything but sleepy! I have seen the town square quite busy a couple of times, but nothing like this.

To decide on queens, the town is divided into two sections with the main street running through town the dividing line. Calle Arriba (Upper Street) and Calle Abajo (Lower Street). A queen is chosen from each area on Friday evening, then the queen and her attendants parade through a route twice each day. Amazingly enough the floats are changed for every parade, both for morning and night, with a different theme.

The costumes are incredibly detailed. A local lady told us both Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo have a board, parents present their daughters to the boards and somehow the boards decide who will be the queens.

Behind each queens float there is a band, mostly trumpets and drums, and a large crowd of people, the queens court.

Daryl and I are living just a few minutes walk to where Calle Arriba floats were organized. On day 2 we thought we would walk over to see the start of the parade. We saw a lot of people hard at work dismantling yesterdays float and putting together new ones!

New floats and new costumes for day 2. It was impossible for me to capture the floats adequately as all four sides are fabulously decorated and there was people everywhere.

This little girl was standing on the side of one of the floats. I did not see her until she was practically on top of me, I was way to close to get a good picture.

More little beauties! Look at those costumes.

It was incredible hot and there were hundreds of people milling about on paved streets. The heat radiates. One sure way to stay cool was to be sprayed with water. If you went to the square you could expect to get wet. There were several tanker trucks located around the square and they were constantly spraying water over the heads of people. The first time the water hit me it was a bit of a shock, but felt so good. A lot of the little kids, and not so little, had water guns. You could expect to be sprayed.

Day 3 was just as spectacular as previous days. Daryl and I watched most of the parade from Main Street. Just as many people and no water.

Be difficult to get any closer than this 🙂

The queens and entourage are incredibly beautiful, but for some it is just a hard days night!

Once a float is finished for that round, the costumed ladies are readily available to have their pictures taken. And look at those shoes! After standing on the float for an hour or more, it amazes me that they are still able to walk.

Day 4. The last parade is starting. It is just as spectacular as the first.

There is just as much detail and decoration on the back of the parade as on the sides and front.

I would not even hazard a guess as to how many people were in the square and surrounding area during the four days of carnival. The ambulance was close to the square, ready in case needed. I never saw it move. There were police everywhere, we saw one minor altercation when someone threw a pop can that struck another person. The police were right there. With all the heat, there were four water tankers in the square that were constantly spraying. Sure kept people cool.

The other thing I found quite interesting was the number of cans thrown on the ground during the parades. Go back as soon as the crowd had cleared up, and not a can to be found.

The last evening of carnival there was no parade with floats, and queens with entourage. Instead, at dusk, or there about, the townsfolk did a parade around the square and beyond. The ladies were dressed in traditional dresses, called polleras, With the men wearing white shirts and dark pants. Everyone either wore a hat or really fancy beaded hairpieces, called tembleques. Everyone was included, fancy dresses and less fancy, older to very young.

Sometimes you need a hand to get the pose just right. Hold the dress out and point your toe.

When you can see shoes peeking out under the dresses, almost everyone has shoes that match something on their dress.

With each circle around the designated area, the crowd grew, and danced the entire time. Daryl and I watched for quite a while, then went for dinner. Well, afterwards there were even more people dancing as they circled the square.

We were taking pictures of this lovely family and they invited us to be in the picture. How could we refuse! The statue behind us is of a previous President, who is from Pedasi

Someone realized that I did not have a hat. So a hat was ever so nicely placed on my head (plunked) and we had to pose for another picture.

It has been four full days. We did not go to any of the night time parades. We have heard those started at midnight, or later. maybe another year, but I don’t know.

The festivities started Friday with the crowning of both queens, Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo. The festivities ended Wednesday morning (we heard the fireworks at 0530 hr) with a ‘dance off’. In my book, they are all winners.

So, seven parades and seven different floats for the queens and their entourages. Then a parade of the town folks wearing traditional costume and dancing for hours. It was incredibly beautiful and an experience not to be missed.

Cheers

Ruth

Nature’s Bounty

Driftwood carving on Arenal Beach

We have most certainly had an interesting week. A couple of days ago we met our neighbours to be, and they had a wealth of local knowledge to share. Where to begin!

This is a loofah vine. It is growing along our neighbours fence and is a gourd.

Once the fruit is dried, the skin is just like paper. If you squeeze it, the skin cracks open and inside is an amazing loofah.

Give it a little tap and the seeds come out easily.

Apparently, if you leave them on the vine too long the inside will get discoloured. I know because I picked some. When washed most of the darker colour came out.

We have been using one in the shower for several days now, and it is the real deal. I read they should be good for a month and can be used to clean anything that needs a mild abrasive.

I saved some seed for next year.

Another amazing tidbit our neighbours shared is that we have Uvilla (pronounced oo-vee-lya) trees. Well, we don’t actually have any yet, but there is one just outside the fence that will be moved inside next year.

Hopefully when the tree gets pruned and watered regularly it will look healthier. Pruning is going to be a challenge as there are spines that are killers.

Who would have known this is a fruit bearing tree? Thankfully our neighbours did. And it is edible.

Our Spanish teacher said the fruit is also used to make wine.

YouTube came in handy again with a video on how to prepare juice. Boiled, smashed and drained is all it took. The juice is kind of sweet and sour and tasted good too.

I saved some of the juice to flavour my next batch of kombucha. That’s another thing, here kombucha is ready to be bottled in a week. Daryl is a recent convert.

Just to keep life interesting:

A couple of days ago somebody posted this picture of Playa El Arenal on one of the local news feeds.

Squid, calamari, were beaching by the thousands. We did not actually see the beach like this.

Fortunately our neighbour got calamar and we were able to get a couple that were already cleaned.

They were big!! One was sufficient for a meal for the two of us.

And very tender.

We recently went back to Playa El Arenal after not having been for a while. Well…. the squid are still hanging around, just not as many. When we first started our walk, we passed a couple carrying two big dripping bags, Daryl said they probably have squid. I said no, more like wet towels. Boy was I wrong.

This guy was making a travois to carry his load. It was very interesting to watch him use dried palm branches and twigs, then grass to tie it together. Finally he weaved more sticks in through the grass to make the platform. I didn’t get a picture but he demonstrated pulling his load.

This couple very generously offered to share their catch with us. We didn’t accept but the generosity of people is wonderful to see.

We walked almost 2 km down the beach and passed many people looking for calamar. It was getting darkish as we got back to the parking lot. There were dozens of people standing in the water and more arriving. Wonderful free food!

Retirement continues to be an amazing adventure.

Cheers.

Ruth

Venao, across the road from surfers paradise there is another world

When we go out exploring the area around Pedasi, we usually find a road that leads to the ocean.

This time we went in the opposite direction. Eco Lodge is just past the main town of Venao and we had heard it had a hike which included a waterfall. As soon as you turn into the parking lot there is a reception area where you pay the fee ($4 per person, goes towards forest restoration) and get a map.

Just a short walk, up a little hill, and you come to the lodge. We were headed towards the Cascada Trail.

We are so not good at following directions, somehow we missed the turn off to stay on the orange trail and continued on the brown trail. At some point we had to turn around and retrace our steps.

Along the path there were several markers, with the back of our map providing the explanations. Our first marker was the Jagua tree, we missed the blossoms as it blooms between May and October, but the fruit remains on the tree for most of the year. The fruit juice is used by some indigenous people for temporary tattoos as it turns the skin blue. And yes the fruit is edible. Our Spanish teacher remembers eating it as a child.

Next was the Barrigon tree. It is nicknamed ‘big belly’ because of its ability to store water during the dry season. Our map suggested hugging the tree, putting your ear against it and have someone beat it like a drum. We did and it sounded hollow.

We made it to the falls. Currently not very big as we are well into the dry season. However, the path was steep going up and down so I imagine it could be quite slippery during the wet season.

Even though most of the hike was in shade, it was so hot. Felt good to put my feet in the water and splash my face. In hindsight we should have just got in the water. We certainly had lots of privacy.

Our hike didn’t go quite as planned. Less than a km in, one of Daryl’s flip flops blew out. Then in a short while the other one broke!

Neither one of us had proper footwear, but mine were pretty good, Ecco sandals with good soles and support. I had just happened to wear socks….to keep twigs and such out of my toes.

Well, the socks got to be Daryl’s footwear for the remainder of the hike.

Look at those poor feet, thankfully not too many small stones.

The hike was beautiful. We did not go to the top, apparently there is a spectacular panoramic view. Next time, with better footwear 🙂

Cheers

Ruth

Visiting Venao, Panama

Venao is such a beautiful little town. When we had family visiting a month or so ago, the three of them….not me for sure…. took surfing lessons. Apparently it is a good workout although I have no firsthand knowledge 🙂

When you take lessons, you go to the far end of the beach where the waves aren’t as big. They looked plenty big!

A couple of days ago we saw an ad for a ‘castle and sand sculpture competition” in Venao and thought it might be fun to go.The last time we went to a sand sculpture exhibition was in Portugal a couple of years ago. That was an incredible amount and display of sculptures.

Portugal, 2020

Under a hot sun on the beach there was an area roped off, and the fun was just beginning when we arrived.

It looked like the kids, both big and little, were having fun. We did not stick around for the awards.

On previous trips to Venao we have pulled into the first parking lot. Today we decided to go further down the road. We found there is so much more to Venao,

There were literally dozens and dozens of surfers in the water.

My favourite way to surf, is to sit on a comfy chair, in the shade, on the beach, with a cold libation. There is a sail boat anchored out in the bay that is just visible under the tree, might also add watching from the beach is my favourite way to ‘sail’…

My phone does not have a good enough camera to do this picture justice.

A cell tower that resembles a palm tree from a distance.

Perfect camouflage in my opinion!

My phones excuse for a close up, does give an indication of just how many surfers there are in the water.

This gigantic swing gives the illusion that one can even get a bit of exercise while on the beach:)

Sunset is not far off, time to call it an afternoon.

As we squint into the sun we will say cheers from another stunning Panama location.

Ruth

Time for a road trip

Bucaro
Bucaro

This has been a different year for us in Panama with fewer adventures than usual. That might have had something to do with the time consuming process of residency, now that’s a story for another day.

Yesterday we went to Cambutal to do a little exploring. Daryl had been there to go on a fishing trip, but I had not been. It is only a 90 km drive however takes a good two hours as the speed limit ranges from 40-60 km/h. And the last 30 km is even slower as you have to dodge potholes. But so pretty, and another hot sunny day. At one point the car thermometer was showing 35C.

Colour wise the dry season here is very much like driving through the Okanaghan in the summer. Lots of brown. A lot of the trees also lose their leaves.

Cambutal is a tiny little town on the ocean that seems to be an up and coming tourist place. It has a lot of new construction happening with hotels right on the beach.

On our way home we took a side road to a little town called Bucaro. It is another incredibly beautiful town right on the ocean. When we turned off the road from Cambutal to go towards Bucaro, Maps showed us travelling across country. In actual fact we were on a nicely paved road!

After we went through the town, at the very end of the road there was a gated community that seemed to have some pretty sweet houses.

So many trees have lost their leaves, not sure what this tree is but it has pink flowers. Such a stark contrast when growing besides a shiny green palm tree.

At one point the road was filled with cows. They are so skinny here. Shortly after working our way slowly through the cows, we came to a sign advising “Cattle Crossing. Danger”.

Cattle Crossing

We ended our day having Pescado Frito entero, the entire red snapper was deep fried, including the head and tail. One of my favourites!

Another day trip in the books. A little too isolated for me to want to live there, but sure sweet to visit.

Cheers

Ruth

Don’t mess with Nature

Playa el toro is the closest beach to Pedasi and is well used. The road that went to the beach was in rough shape at the end, and getting worse every year, but still drivable. Over the past year there must have been some very big waves as the road has totally collapsed.

At the entrance to the beach you can take a path that starts a little further up the road. Not in great shape but an alternate way to get to the beach.

We have been coming to this beach for several years now. Last year we were able to park besides the blue fence. Not anymore!

Total collapse. So sad.

Once on the beach, if you turn to the right you have tons of rocks and a short area for walking. However, if you turn to the left, at low tide you have lots of sandy beach and can walk for kilometres.

As you walk up the beach there is much erosion with many exposed roots.

This structure is standing proud. Last time we were at this beach a large group of people were enjoying this space, and the food smells were fantastic.

There are a lot of fallen trees.

The further you go up the beach, the shoreline becomes flatter and with fewer trees. The destructive power of nature is not evident here. It just looks like a sunny late afternoon walk on a calm day.

It is amazing what happened from one year to the next.

Cheers

Ruth

The quest for a swimming beach

We had been told there is a beach quite close to Playita, out favourite swimming place, that was just about as calm, at Villa Marina.

Villa Marina is a lodge and condo development between Playa Playita and Playa Vanao, with a very short drive between them. It is an absolutely stunning location.

The grounds were beautifully manicured, with the pool pretty well on the beach. We had been told the staff are quite amendable to restaurant guests using the pool. We didn’t and only one person was in the pool while we were there.

It was hot! I would be the person lying in the hammock in the shade, rather that around the pool in the bright sunshine.

The lodge was checking in guests while we were there. It would be an incredible place to stay, however for us it is only a half hour drive.

While this was a fabulous location, for me it was not a swimming beach. In the picture below you can see the town of Venao in the foreground. Venao is a busy surfing beach, so just the opposite of calm. Playita is in the other direction and well protected.

The food was delicious.

Daryl had a chicken empanada, corn tortillas, local chorizo and a local cheese which is very mild.

Mine was tortillas de yuca with the same chorizo and cheese. Four mini pizzas with a base that kind of tasted like a potato pancake, and so filling I could only eat two.

We were the only people in the restaurant.

My take so far. Playita is still the best swimming beach. Villa Marina has the better restaurant (and they gave the 15% jubilado discount). Has to be some benefit to being retired! Because they are located so close to each other, we can enjoy the best of both on the same day.

Cheers and Happy New Year

Ruth

Life’s simple pleasures

Playita Resort is about a half hour from Pedasi. We have never stayed at the resort but pay a fee and go to the beach. There are lots of beaches just a short distance from Pedasi that are fabulous for walking. For me, they are not for swimming as the waves are too big during the dry season. Every time we have been at Playa Playita the water has been calm, maybe not glass but close!

This is one place where you can go and almost always see Scarlet Macaws. They are not shy about letting you get close. The staff at Playita put food our for the critters. This fellow was having a good feed of sunflower seeds. Truthfully, we have found it hard to buy raw sunflower seeds for humans, but birdseed is available just about everywhere.

This area has a lovely wind and surf break that keeps the water calm. Also no ‘chill factor’ when you dip your toes in.

Often when walking on beaches we can hear monkeys in the forest. Rarely do we actually see them. At Playita the monkeys are fed bananas. We just happened to arrive at their lunch time. There had to have been a couple of dozen monkeys up in the trees. They were very quick at coming for a banana then running back up the tree to eat it. They came in different sizes and genders.

What a fantastic view from the bohio.

This is probably the busiest beach we go to. Even though the beach and water doesn’t look very crowded, the bohios, or maybe palapas?, have been full every time we have been here. You need to be in the shade as the sun is blistering. The sand also gets too hot to walk on barefoot.

This last visit, we were sharing a table with another family as the place was full. They came prepared with lunch and very generously offered to share their food with us. We didn’t eat their lunch but we sure did try the ceviche and tuna spread on crackers that were offered. Both were very good. We have met some truly generous people. Us not speaking much Spanish and other people not speaking much English has not been a barrier to friendliness.

After our swim we stopped at the restaurant for a bite to eat. There was not a very big selection, but what we had was good, deep fried whole pargo rojo (red snapper) with pataconies (smashed flat and deep fried plantain). I did not get a picture but that fish had to have been a good 14″ long. Of course, that did include the head and tail.

We have been barbecuing whole pargo at home. It works and is very good but nothing like the deep fried. However, the one time I got an eyeball in my mouth was the end of cooking with the head still attached!!

We have heard there is another private beach that is as calm as Playita. We will be sure to check it out as Playita can get very busy and finding a shady spot to sit can be difficult. So far, this is still my favourite swimming beach.

Cheers and Merry Christmas

Ruth

Price Smart, just like going to Costco

This is our first trip to Panama where we are staying more than 3 months. In Pedasi you can get pretty well everything you need, and most of what you want. But maybe this year it’s time to look a little further afield. So many people have told us about Price Smart, kind of equivalent to Canada’s Costco, that we had to go check it out. This year we both ended up getting sick, (at different times, of course), therefore in this first month our outings have been few and far between.

The closest Price Smart is in Santiago, about a two hour drive away. Certainly a long way to go shopping, but a great way to spend a day when not feeling 100%.

We had driven this road during a previous Panama visit when we had gone to Santa Catalina for Daryl to do some diving. (Remember that fabulous trip Marie).

Thankfully it’s an easy drive. Once you get to Las Tablas there is a double laned highway all the way. The last half hour or so is on the Pan American.

Shortly after leaving Pedasi we were pulled over by the policia. As with previous times when stopped by the police, the only item of interest is the date of arrival into Panama stamped in your passport. A Canadian can only drive in Panama for three months after arrival date. Daryl’s drivers license barely got a glance.

It was a short stop. In seconds we were on our way.

When we arrived at Price Smart it was such a treat to pull into a covered parking lot. It was 34C, not a breeze, and felt like being in an oven.

Once inside it only took minutes to fill out the form, get our pictures taken (always flattering) and be issued our Price Smart card. Out first Panamian ID of any sort! All the employees were wearing masks, very few customers.

My first impression is that it is like going to a big box store anywhere. Even the layout is similar to Costco. When we arrived it was lunch time on a Friday, my other big impression was that the place was not busy or crowded, not even close.

There was a big optical dept directly inside the store which we did not check out. Might have to do that if go back as it is time for new prescription sunglasses. Previously we paid less than half of what it would have cost at home.

And, of course, you have to walk through the electronics department to get anywhere. Not sure if you can see the price but that JVC 65″ smart tv is $479. US$….but still. All the TV’s were showing video’s of winter wonderland.

The rest of it was the same as any big box store. We did not buy any produce or meat as we can get that in our little town, although the strip loin looked good. And look at that! we found Canadian maple syrup.

What made it worthwhile for us, apart from the sheer pleasure of being on a road trip, was being able to get lots of nuts. Gluten free breakfasts can be a bit of a pain when it is hard to get nuts and seeds (or they are super pricy when you find them). The other biggie was beer. It is cheap here anywhere, but at Price Smart it was ridiculously priced. The brand that Daryl generally drinks (except for when he can get craft beer) costs about $10 a dozen. At Price Smart it was $13 for 24 beers! We had a happy camper.

The only way to finish a shopping trip is to visit the food court, so of course we did. The salad and ice cream were both good. We have heard their pizza is good as well, but that gluten thing again.

Now that we have a card we can order online. Unless of course we need another road trip to visit the shiny new mall that has just opened up. It was practically next door to Price Smart so we took a peek inside one of the entrances. It is massive and we have heard it rivals Albrook in Panama City. Couldn’t stay and shop as our groceries would have been melted or cooked. Liquid butter was not an option.

After a full day of driving and shopping, it’s great to come home and be able to go for a sunset beach walk.

Life is good. If we had to be sick, at least we did not freeze!

Cheers

Ruth

Aerial yoga in Pedasi: Flying High

For the past few years I have followed a Pedasi Facebook page. Shortly before we left Calgary there was a post for aerial yoga that looked like something I would try. I replied with ‘interested’, then forgot about it until I got an inquiry back. By this time we were already in Pedasi.

As it turned out, the instructor is also our property manager. We arranged an assessment session and I went with very little knowledge of what to expect. Armed with only a list of essentials to bring, and instructions to not eat a big breakfast before starting as it might not sit well, I set out for my destination. Hestor and her husband have a house that has a deck totally surrounding it. It is very functional. The yoga studio is the back deck.

I had not done any yoga since online Iyngear during covid lockdown, The brochure looked a little intimidating but I am already at the studio. Nothing to do but go forward. And those listed benefits, well a few pop out! A full class would be three students.

So far I have been to three classes, all private. The first was 90 minutes showing how to use the hammock while incorporating ‘normal’ yoga poses. The other two were an hour each. I don’t know the proper names of the different poses but the basics is pretty well the same as I have done previously. Being able to hold onto the hammock or a strap sure helps with balance! You are also supposed to get a deep tissue massage from the pressure of the hammock.

The inversion is not as hard to get into as I thought. Of course it helps to have the instructor guiding you through every step. The one thing she did say was don’t be surprised if you get a headache when initially doing this pose. I did and it lasted for a day the first time, a couple of hours the second time and none the third. Getting out was even easier than getting in.

Something must be working as my quads are killing me! There is a lot of stretching, and squeezing, and holding and breathing. When I get home and squat to sit down it’s a big ouch.

The sessions end with a nice gentle swing and relax lying in a cocoon.

As you lie, sit or stand during the workout looking out over this garden, it is not at all unusual to see a hummingbird enjoying some of the flowering shrubs.

The plan is to carry on doing this a couple of times a week. I have to believe the need to say ouch every time I sit down will eventually go away.

Cheers

Ruth